A bond deeper than blood.
The friendship forged in wartime Crete between
Patrick Leigh Fermor and shepherd George Psychoundakis was commemorated
in George's memoir about the Resistance, The Cretan Runner
With the book republished, it was time to meet again.
Two old men sitting at a table talking about the war. A Cretan and an
Englishman. A voluble eye-popping tenor and a growly teddy-bear bass.
"Remember the sick doctor we disguised as an old woman and carried for miles
to get help?" "Yes, and remember when you dressed up as a general and
kidnapped a real one!"
They interrupt each other. They sigh for the dead. They laugh for dear life,
knowing exactly how much it can cost. Although one of the men speaks only
Greek, I think I can detect a rhythm to their reminiscing: the Cretan talks
everything up and the Englishman plays it right back down again. The sudden
memory of one "bad Greek" acts on the Cretan's weathered face like a
drawstring, pulling it taut to a scowling walnut. But the Englishman, all
silky diplomacy, jumps in and offers a more optimistic assessment of the
fiend in question: "I think he just lost his head a bit."
Later, when the Cretan mentions the Englishman's name in the course of what
sounds like a pretty fulsome tribute, his friend stops translating for me
altogether. What did he say? "He was more than kind about me." Yes, but
what did he say? "Oh, I couldn't possibly repeat it."
The bashful Briton is Patrick "Paddy" Leigh Fermor, traveller, scholar-
gypsy, war hero and writer of genius. His fiery friend is George
Psychoundakis, author of The Cretan Runner, an extraordinary account of
the anti- Nazi Resistance on the island, which was translated by Leigh
Fermor and is now republished.
There have been other memoirs of wartime Crete, such as Xan Fielding's
Hide and Seek and Ill Met by Moonlight, W Stanley Moss's record of the
kidnapping of General Kreipe (later made into a movie, with Dirk Bogarde
assigned to fill Leigh Fermor's dashing boots).
But those were visitors' books. George's story, as Leigh Fermor points out
in the introduction, is unique. It is no longer the locals who are colourful
aliens, but the Allied officers and their wireless operators - good sorts
and good sports in the main but, none the less, foreigners with some very
dodgy customs. "A most peculiar man," George says of one buffer. "He had
pyjamas and a washbasin."
Even more baffling for the Cretans, who think Nature is a place where you
go and shoot things, the buffer turned out to be an amateur botanist and
geologist: "He was not only in love with different kinds of weeds but with
stones as well."
Paddy and I have been sitting in the front room of George's small vine-clad
house, outside Khania in western Crete, for more than two hours now. At
least one of us is reeling under the bombardment of Cretan hospitality.
Celestial cheese tarts made by Sofia, George's wife, have given way to nuts,
glistening sweetmeats and, as if that weren't enough, shots of tsikoudia,
a spirit so lethal it feels less like drinking a liquid than sipping scalded
air. After three of these, I am not entirely sure whether the spools on
my tape recorder are going round: after four, I don't care.
George - one eye sleepy, the other coal black with embers of mischief -
is joking about whether he should have given lessons in sheep stealing
(a local speciality) to one of the wireless operators.
"So when he got back to Scotland he could have organised sheep rustling."
Paddy pretends, unconvincingly, to be shocked.
Through the window behind them, you can see the White Mountains - a range
so towering and snowy, even on this May day, that it is hard to tell where
rock stops and cloud begins. More than half a century ago, those slopes
were Paddy and George's stamping-ground. "George's life was dangerous and
absolutely exhausting," explains Paddy. But George is having none of it:
"I felt as if I were flying. Running all the way from the top of the White
Mountains to Mount Ida. So light and easy - just like drinking a cup of
coffee."
George has difficulty walking now - at 78 he leans on a stick as gnarled
as himself - but his mind can leap from memory to memory, as if he were
still flying. I ask George what he thought the British had learnt from
the Cretans and vice versa.
"What they learnt, because there was very little to eat, was to drink a
lot and to dance and to shoot for joy in the air.
We saw how much they loved our country and it made us love it still more.
The fact that they loved Crete so much gave us even greater courage."
The first time George Psychoundakis met Patrick Leigh Fermor he thought
he was very tall. The young Cretan had just crawled on all fours through
thick bushes into the heap of boulders where the officer was hiding. In
fact, the Englishman was not especially lofty (a touch over 5ft 9in,
according to his passport).
It was the Greek who was tiny. "As fine-boned as an Indian,"
recalls Leigh Fermor. "Lithe and agile and full of nervous energy."
Anyway, height didn't matter much back then. It was the July of 1942 in
occupied Crete and the stature of men was not measured in inches, rather
in a bewildering range of abilities. These included: keeping cool when a
member of the Gestapo approaches your mule while it is carrying a
combustible load of wheat and wireless; keeping warm in a cave-bed with
a canopy of stalactites; and finding the courage to tuck into a dinner of
local produce - grass cooked with snails.
"We took the grass blade by blade, picked off the broken shells and ate
it with much laughter," recalls George.
Psychoundakis was a runner for the Resistance - a vertical postman, he
delivered messages and equipment at barely credible speed. On a map, Crete
doesn't look too daunting - a sirloin steak beaten to a succulent sliver
by a butcher. But it rises so sharply into such broken-toothed cragginess
that it is pointless to measure it in miles: the islanders calculate
distances in the time taken to smoke cigarettes. George's wartime business
was mainly conducted at eagle-height, or as he felt his way down the
vertebrae of his homeland towards some hiding place where even goats
didn't dare.
He was 21 years old when he first met the 27-year-old Leigh Fermor. George
addressed Paddy as Michali (all the Allied soldiers had Greek nicknames)
or sometimes Mr Michali in half-amused respect (irreverence being the key
to the Psychoundakis psyche). Paddy, meanwhile, code- named George either
the Clown or the Changeling, for his cockeyed wit, his impish
insubordination and a magical ability to spirit himself out of trouble.
The two men were not just worlds apart: a glance at their biographies
suggests you would need to hire a time machine to bring them together. Born
in Asi Gonia, a village with a long history of giving invaders a hard time
(asi is Arabic for uncommandable), George lived the kind of peasant life
that had not changed for centuries. His family slept together in a single
room with a beaten earth floor. After a scratchy education at the local
primary school, he followed his father on to the mountains as a shepherd.
By the time German parachutes blotted out the sky in May 1941, he had
visited only two of Crete's towns and had never seen the capital, Heraklion.
By contrast, Leigh Fermor was born into a smart Anglo-Irish family and
educated at prep school and King's, Canterbury.
[Just like someone else we know]
By 1939, he had walked across every country between London and
Constantinople - a stroll commemorated in his two dazzling volumes,
A Time of Gifts and Between the Woods and the Water - and also appeared
to have drunk in most of their national literatures.
Scrape through what Leigh Fermor called his "Fauntleroy veneer", though,
and you find a rougher grain. With his parents abroad for the first four
years of his life, Paddy was entrusted to the family of a small farmer and,
left uncultivated, he ran wild. The experience, he later wrote, "unfitted
me for the faintest shadow of constraint". His behaviour at a flurry of
schools led to his being sent to two psychiatrists, although it is
unlikely that either rivalled Paddy's clinical diagnosis of himself as
"a very naughty boy".
He was finally expelled from King's for crimes that included "trying to
be funny" and holding the hand of a greengrocer's daughter.
His housemaster's report noted:
"He is a dangrous mixture of sophistication and recklessness,
which makes one anxious about his influence on other boys."
Almost 70 years later, I find it hard to improve on that verdict, save to
replace the word dangerous with delightful. As it turned out, his influence
on other boys was all to the good, and the most remarkable boy of all was
George Psychoundakis.
While Paddy was in Kent writing "bad and imitative verse" and lapping up
ancient Greek because it was a passport to a world of heroes, George was
scavenging books from the village priest and the doctor, and occupying the
long woolly hours by the sheepfold composing patriotic poems and beady skits
on local life. (An early effort entitled Ode to an Inkspot on a
Schoolmistress's Skirt sounds distinctly Paddy-like in its high- flown
cheekiness).
Although George's father, Nicolas, was illiterate, he could recite by heart
the whole of the Erotocritos, the 17th-century Cretan epic poem that
comprises 10,000 lines of rhyming couplets. And the rhythm lodged in the
son's head and on his tongue: poetry to these people was not the object
of solemn study but a spur to the spinning of legends and the cue for a
bloody good song.
Which is to say that when the ragged and practically barefoot Cretan
wriggled into the hiding-place of the Englishman in 1942, they had more
in common than an enemy. George spoke only one perfect sentence of English
- "I steal grapes every day" - but Paddy soon extended his repertoire.
On long marches to the coast to meet supply vessels or during the dark hours
awaiting a parachute drop, the Britons taught the Greeks folk-songs and
the Greeks taught them mantinadas - waspish local couplets with a sting
in the tail.
On their first trek together, Paddy recalls how George recited a poem he
had written on the unambitious theme of The Second World War So Far.
"It covered the invasion of Poland, the fall of France, the German
invasion of Greece and Rommel's final advance.
It lasted more than two hours and finished on a note of triumphant optimism
and presage of vengeance, which he emphasised by borrowing my pistol and
firing it into the sky with the remark that we would soon be eating the
cuckolds alive."
Leigh Fermor, meanwhile, attempted to satisfy Psychoundakis's ravenous
curiosity about the world. What was Churchill like? Why do the Scots wear
kilts? How about astronomy, religion, trains? How many sheep does the
average Englishman own?
The task of the British Special Operations Executive in Crete was to assist
the local Resistance. Having spent centuries in revolt against the Venetians
and the Turks, the islanders didn't actually need much encouragement. During
the airborne invasion in 1941, when many young Cretans were away on active
service, descending parachutists were met by old men, women and children
- by anyone, in fact, who could point upwards and shoot. "Aim for the legs
and you'll get them in the heart," ran the local wisdom. Four thousand Germans
died. Those who survived took swift revenge. Reprisals, read one Wehrmacht
memo, "must be carried through with exemplary terror". Between May and
September of that year, 1,135 Cretans were executed.
The Cretan Runner begins with the invasion. "Out of the sky the winged
devils of Hitler were falling everywhere ... the aeroplanes came and went
like bees in a bee-garden." One grounded plane is set upon by furious locals
till it resembles "a bit of bread thrown on to an ant-hill". From the
opening pages, you get a pungent impression of the Psychoundakis style -
a vertiginous mix of the epic and the demotic, the Homeric and the homely.
Of the enemy, George writes: "They reached to our very bowels and provoked
a storm in the soul of the race like the hiss of a poisonous snake about
to strike." No British account of the battle of Crete could contain a sentence
like that. Too purple. Too embarrassing, frankly. But it feels utterly true
to George and the hot-blooded rhetoric of his race.
Perhaps the greatest surprise of a book that documents the burning of
villages, the casual slaughter of comrades and a life of mesmerising danger
is how often it makes you smile. No stranger to hardship anyway, George
embraces discomfort as though it were a shy friend with a lot to offer.
We see George at the end of a knackering three-day trek using pieces of
wood to mime someone hobbling. We hear him enthusing over yet another dank
hiding-place as though he were writing for some actionable travel brochure:
"The cave was perfect. We collected our drinking and washing water from
stalactites. We arranged luxurious couches for ourselves from the branches
of various shrubs that were better than the softest mattress!"
Best of all, there is George richly enjoying his British friends, not least
their congenital inability to walk over the rocky landscape. (In one
incident, Leigh Fermor threw himself pluckily at a high stone wall in
emulation of local bravado, only to fall off backwards: the Cretans in the
party walked around the side of the wall, shaking their heads and laughing.)
"It was plain that George was enraptured with the excitement of our secret
life," says Paddy. The same could be said of all of them, I think. As a
boy Leigh Fermor confessed to being guilty of "a bookish attempt to coerce
life into a closer resemblance to literature". In this case, the literature
was Greek. The Cretans, for their part, seemed all too willing to live up
to the legends the Englishmen had imbibed at school. Most battles look
romantic only in retrospect, if then: Crete was different.
It seems to have struck its leading men as touched with an air of romance,
even as the drama was unfolding. As they approached by boat on a moonless
night, the first the soldiers knew of the island was perfume, the scent
of wild thyme that wafts miles out to sea.
Once on shore, they changed into local costume - breeches, black bandanas,
embroidered waistcoats and spiffy jackboots. There were lessons in how to
curl their new moustaches. They were an extraordinary bunch - poets,
archaeologists, free spirits thirsty for adventure. SOE chose them because
they had some knowledge of ancient Greek. But, as Leigh Fermor explains,
since Greek was no longer compulsory at school, those who opted for it had
already marked themselves out as "a perverse and eccentric minority".
I cannot get enough of the photographs of the Resistance taken through those
years in the mountains. Remember, these are snapshots captured at a time
when to have a likeness of yourself in existence was itself a threat to
that existence. There is the legendary Xan "Aleko" Fielding, looking
uncannily like the young Hemingway. Gimlet-eyed and bare- chested, he
regards the lens with Olympian amusement. And there is Yanni Tsangarakis,
one of the bravest and most trusted guides, slightly woebegone behind a
Zebedee moustache, and the redoubtable Manoli Paterakis, whose
unforgettable profile suggests he may have been the love-child of
Montgomery of Alamein and a peregrine falcon.
[I think he's trying to say he was nasally overendowed]
Looking at the smiley countenance of Tom Dunbabin - a fellow of All Souls
in peacetime - you can see why he inspired such love; ditto the gaunt saintly
faces of Aleko Kokonas, the schoolmaster of Yerakari, and his wife, Kyria
Maria. And then, of course, there are Paddy and George: the first as
debonair and unfeasibly handsome as Errol Flynn casting about for a galleon
to capture; the second apparently auditioning for the role of Puck.
In Louis de Bernieres's novel Captain Corelli's Mandolin, set in wartime
Cephalonia, there is a posh Englishman who lives in a cave and comes out
declaiming ancient Greek. He is a bit of a joke. And, to be sure, there
is something potentially laughable about the Boy's Own aspect of all this
dressing up and blowing stuff up. What redeems it from absurdity, what
transforms it into real rather than fantastical heroism, is the nagging
presence of death, which circled above these lives like a hawk. There was
nothing comic-book about Anton Zoidakis, captured by German soldiers, tied
to their vehicle and dragged along the road until his face and his life
were wiped away. And even George's account of merry scrapes is pulled up
short when 20 Gestapo visit Asi Gonia: "They said I was wanted for
interrogation and if didn't go to Retimo before January 17 they would set
fire to the whole village."
Three of George's fellow runners were executed, two after what the Wehrmacht
would probably have considered exemplary torture. In his superb book Crete:
The Battle and the Resistance, Antony Beevor points out that the penalty
for a shepherd caught whistling to warn of the approach of a German patrol
was death.
War had transformed George Psychoundakis's life. In February 1943, it
enabled the former shepherd boy to travel abroad for the first time. He
was spirited off to SOE headquarters in Egypt, where he was knocked
sideways by wonders, not least the grass in the Gezira gardens: "Fat,
short grass like green velvet carpet." As for the zoo, "I could almost
have deemed that I was in the middle of paradise". The most misguided
character in the whole of The Cretan Runner is the soldier who advised
George not to climb up the Pyramids because it was "very tiring and
tricky". A short hop later, the Cretan runner got out his stiletto and
"cut my name and fatherland" into a stone at the top.
On the day the war was over, a "high-spirited Mr Leigh Fermor" bought a
dubious Mr Psychoundakis a lot of drinks. "If I drink all that I'll be
drunk," protested George. "But my child, what is drink meant for? It's no
use for anything else," replied Paddy.
Soon after, in a school where a whole village was gathered together, George
recited a heart-stopping poem he had written on the lovely village of
Yerakari, now destroyed, where once "white houses lay like doves asleep
along the sill of heaven". He had survived, but for a while it was hard
to see what for.
Fortune, who had smiled on George in a time of insane adversity, appeared
to doze off once the shooting stopped. Because of missing documents and
in spite of his British Empire Medal (awarded in 1945), he was arrested
as a deserter and imprisoned for several months. One can scarcely imagine
the wound inflicted on his pride. Over three days, that great shaggy helmet
of hair all fell out. Subsequently, he had to do two more years of fighting
in the civil war. Returning at last to Asi Gonia, George found all the sheep
stolen and his family in gruesome poverty. The Changeling had run out of
magic.
George took a job as a navvy working on a road. At night, he sheltered once
more in a cave and by the light of an oil lamp began to fill notebook after
notebook with a furious, cramped hand. "I think he undertook this task as
a kind of exorcism of the gloom of his circumstances, " says Paddy. When
they met up again in 1951, George gave his friend the completed work:
Pictures of Our Life During the Occupation.
Better known as The Cretan Runner.
Leigh Fermor, now living on the Greek mainland, took the precious
grime-covered manuscript home to translate. George, meanwhile, was working
to help his old friend, too. In 1943, with a German patrol approaching,
Paddy, who was checking what he thought was an empty rifle, accidentally
shot Yanni Tzangarakis in the leg. He died soon afterwards, but not before
absolving his friend of all blame. Paddy was devastated: imagine killing
the proud son of a country for which you were willing to lay down your own
life.
This wretchedness was deepened by foolish rumours that eventually led to
a vendetta being declared by some of Yanni's relatives. This was only laid
to rest after years of delicate negotiation by George, who found a very
Cretan solution to the Englishman's impasse: Paddy Leigh Fermor became
godfather to Yanni's great-niece. In Greek society, this bond is deeper
than blood.
Two old men sitting at a table talking about the war. A Cretan and an
Englishman. "We'd better censor that, George, it's libellous," says Paddy,
trying to sound stern. As usual, he fails.
George goes off into the bedroom and comes back with a rifle. It is nearly
as tall as he is, and its working parts are in similarly creaky order. As
George poses with the gun, the photographer asks him to smile. George scowls
and spits out a guttural retort. "Oh dear, oh dear," says Paddy, shaking
his head and laughing. What did George just say? "He said he won't smile
because he's killing Germans."
At the front of A Time of Gifts, Leigh Fermor quotes from Louis MacNeice's
great poem:
For now the time of gifts is gone
O boys that grow,
O snows that melt,
O bathos that the years must fill.
Since the war, both men have found satisfactions. Leigh Fermor, though
unfairly saddled with the label of travel writer, has become one of the
greatest exponents of English prose.
Psychoundakis, meanwhile, has translated both the Odyssey and the Iliad
into Cretan and been honoured by the Academy of Athens. Still, I can't help
wondering whether the time since their great adventure had been an
anti-climax.
"To some extent all our lives were in those years," admits Paddy. "Of
course, one went on to do interesting things, but ... " George has come
up now and stretches out his fingertips to reach the shoulders of his friend,
the tall Englishman. "Ah, George says to tell you that those years up in
the mountains were the best years of his life. He'll never forget it. Never.
And that's why he wanted to commemorate our days together."
Just as we are getting ready to leave, George gives Paddy a photograph.
It is of George himself and Xan Fielding, taken somewhere in the mountains.
You can just make them out. The emulsion is breaking up and great snowy
specks of it are blizzarding them into oblivion. Yet looking back at the
Cretan resisters, we see only a thrilling clarity. Their existence was both
mortally serious and a great wheeze - perhaps a definition of the best kind
of life you can hope to lead.
Years after the war ended, George Psychoundakis sang for his friend Patrick
Leigh Fermor a mantinada. This is what it said:
With patience first and patience last, and doggedness all through,
A man can think the wildest thoughts and make them all come true.
`The Cretan Runner' (Penguin) by George Psychoundakis is available for
£ 5.99 from Telegraph Books Direct, 24 Seward Street, London EC1V 3GB,
or call 0541 557222. UK postage free. Please quote PA318.
